January 2012
127 posts
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Welcoming those from Russia, (with love!)
Seems like I was included on a list at a Russian style/fashion site: ”Look at Me”. The rough Google translation was pretty nice and I’m included alongside some other great blogger folk — frankly, I’m surprised to be included.
So, hello my new Russian readership!
edlcm asked: Since I discovered the whole #menswear society I haven't been to stores, San Diego isn't the best place to shop, aside from Neiman or Bloomingdales. Today I had to get something for my brother's birthday tomorrow, so I figured JCrew FS, he has no clue what #menswear means and could care less about his clothes (still young). I saw Neiman Marcus Last Call and though why the hell not....
Anonymous asked: I'm job interviewing and want to add a professional touch to my presentation by adding a leather dossier (something slim/sleek). Are there any manufactures or products you would recommend?
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Business travel realizations
I never had to really worry about the things most business travelers worry about, because at my old job I drove when I had to travel.
This meant I could take as many of my suits in a garment bag as I wanted with me. I could bring a decent travel iron for my shirts. I could pack multiple shoes into a tote bag. I could have more than one piece of luggage plus a briefcase.
But this whole flying...
Anonymous asked: I apologize for bringing this topic back up, but I remember reading about your stance on black and brown together and about how black should be reserved for formal situations and brown is more casual (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm guessing you are against black chinos? If not, what color of shoes would be appropriate with them? Thanks, your advice is much appreciated!
brian-m asked: I'm not sure that this is your specialty, but I feel like I can always trust your opinions, or at least you to point me to someone who can help. I've been looking for a letterman jacket for a long time now. I've tried to be patient, but it has been 8 or 9 months now and ebay isn't coming through for me. I'm sure it can be blamed on my own ebay searching abilities, but...
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Anonymous asked: What would your recommendation be on JCrew's Authentic Bayswater Peacoat? It's on sale and can be had for around $120 right now in my size. I'm looking for something I can get many years wear out of. Is there a better alternative I should save a bit more for or should I pull the trigger?
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Anonymous asked: So I love BB's ESF non-iron shirts. Only dilemma now is they've introduced a BrooksCool shirt with a "cornwall" spread collar. I've always gone with the regular cotton with the ainsley collar. From their stock photo, the cornwall collar also looks to be a little slimmer/smaller. Any thoughts on the collar, and material as well? Trying to figure out my next purchase....
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This Fits: Red Wing Boots at J. Crew - 40% off →
For those of you looking for some serious boots.
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duckfacekilla asked: I just bought two new suits and have to get them tailored. I want to have them cropped kinda high to show off sock and/or shoes (im sure you're familiar with the look). Anyway, I was wondering if I could ask my tailor to make the pant legs skinner so that they will be closer to my leg. Im sorry if you dont understand the question, its the only way I know how to explain it.
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selvageandsuede asked: Hey! So I got the Cerbero double monk straps in. They have a pretty decent construction for a pair under $200. The leather sole is pretty soft, they're already scuffed up pretty rough. But at least now I have some sort of slide-prevention. They felt pretty wide at the heel, but once I adjusted the bottom strap, it tightened things up a bit. The suede isn't bad looking, and the underside...
Anonymous asked: I am buying my first suit soon. How do I figure out my measurements?
error501 asked: Hi Kiyoshi, I'm headed to NYC next weekend and was wondering if there were any menswear shops that were must-see TV. I mean, I know there are, but there are so many, so I'm looking for a little direction, maybe in the West Village area. Thanks, and good luck with the big move!
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Anonymous asked: Looking to buy 6" Bean Boots but there sold out of my size (7D), but have the EE width. Would the width make a big difference or can I opt and get the EE?
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What would you do with "unwearable" jeans?
I’d like to open the floor to suggestions on what to do with your used denim that’s pretty much beyond repair and would otherwise be thrown out.
sashu said:
there really needs to be some kind of denim recycling plant because throwing out your jeans just strikes me as ...
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Anonymous asked: I have a question about jeans and your new uniform. At what point do you consider raw denim to be too faded or worn in to be worn with a sport coat? My last pair of raw denim is pretty torn up (crotch blow out, wallet holes, etc) but still work casually. My current pair is starting to show some whiskering and wallet fades but I think can still be dressed up with a sport coat. When do you replace...
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evolvingstyle asked: Hey Kyoshi, Do you mess with button-down shirts when wearing a suit? Cheers!
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On Sale
pleatsareforlovers:
NEVER WORN Run of the Mill 1st generation Double Monk Straps in a 9.5 for $300 or best offer (retail: $405). They didn’t fit me :(
Hit me up on fan mail or whatever and we’ll chat. These fit true to size.
Someone with smaller feet than me should give Gabe a shout.
Put This On: Ramen Noodle Budget: Where to Shop →
Part three is now online. If you’re pretty damned broke, then you’ll want to read this one and start shopping at places where you can find basement-level prices on the secondary market — online and IRL.
Part four goes up Monday!
45paperplates asked: I hope you wrote the cover story on Valet today, because its using a lot of your specifics.
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Anonymous asked: Hey - just thrifted 2 pairs of great flannel charcoal trousers. Legs need to be tapered though because they are pretty wide, when you bring your pants in to the tailor, how do you request the legs be tapered? Do you just say you need them slimmer or do you give a measurement for the leg opening at the bottom? P.S. love the blog.
Anonymous asked: Looking for beanies, gloves, scarves, & socks on a ramen noodle budget. Can you help me out? All casual that will keep me warm.
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Anonymous asked: Let's talk shirt sleeve length. Are there rules of thumb for assessing the sleeve length of an off-the-rack shirt, or for showing your tailor exactly how long you want them when getting alterations done? And in terms of cuff button placement, how wide should the cuff openings be relative to your wrist? FWIW, I don't wear a watch.
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error501 asked: Re big socks for big feet: I got a pair of cotton Happy Socks a while ago, and the heel covers my Achilles tendon almost to the back of my shin. I don't know if that's categorically true of their cotton socks (I have a couple wool ones that fit more normally), but it might be worth checking out, especially at their price point.
Put This On: Ramen Noodle Budget: Getting Started →
Part two of my Ramen Noodle Budget series is now up at Put This On. It’s about how before you even start buying clothing, you first need to figure out what you already have and get some basic information — like what your measurements and correct sizes are for your body.
Give it a read, reblog it around if you would.
Part three goes up tomorrow (Thursday!) and I’ll finally...
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Where to buy great neckties
I received a question from bbgahman about neckties and what some of my recommendations were:
My question is about identifying and purchasing quality ties. I’m very Ivy/Trad in tie collection, and I want to incorporate grenadine/silk knit as well as four/six/seven fold ties. Can you point me in the right direction in terms of brands, price points, and retailers? Appreciate it man.
First,...
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slothbearwolf asked: im a 15e. bru with big feet needs to check out pantharella on sierra tp. their largest size, i forget what it actually is, works wonders. Their over the calf is actually is. Rich colors, small patterns, cheap. If dude is willing to spend more, solid haberdashers (Brooks Brothers for certain) have a bunch of kinds of socks. Dude should also be advised that, if there are 11-13/14 offered,...
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silent3 asked: I wear a US size 15 shoe, and I need new socks. I need interesting socks: argyles, patterns, horizontal stripes, etc. The problem is, "one size fits all" doesn't work for me. Do you know of any shops that sell nice, interesting king-size socks? Thanks!
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Anonymous asked: Do you do anything crazy to your boots to get them winter ready? I snagged a pair of AE Bayfields for a good price. Would a normal conditioning & cream routine do me justice for rain/snow?
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Anonymous asked: Hello, I'd like to start off by saying that I enjoy your blog a whole lot. That being said, can all three button single-breasted jackets be worn as a 3-2 roll or is that only an option for some? Thank you.
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eclecticstyles asked: What are your suggestions for slim fitting shirts? I've tried BB extra slim shirt. However, my chest is too large (I'm somewhat muscular with an 8 inch drop) for them and they pull in the chest area in my size (small). When I size up to medium, they are too big in the shoulders and the sleeves are too long. Any ideas or should I just go MTM? Also, is it easy/worth it for a tailor to...
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The Sig Other's (capsule) coverage →
It’s nice seeing someone actually put together a cohesive post instead of Instagram-ing pictures all day on Twitter.
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Anonymous asked: Do you have any recommendations for a good blazer style winter jacket (preferably quilted) with a breast pocket?
Hi new followers & readers!
I suspect many of you came over via Put This On, which is great and I’m glad you’re here.
If you have a question, you can ask, but I generally ask that you keep it related to #menswear-ish topics. If you prefer e-mail, there’s that, too (thesilentist@gmail.com).
I also suggest you check out some of the best stuff I’ve written on this site.
Also, you should check out my...
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Anonymous asked: hi kiyoshi, ive slowly added a couple great blazers/sportcoats to my closet, but i have a hard time creating looks with them. something just looks off when i wear them with my current jeans, any recommendations you have for jeans/pants to create the casual blazer look?
Anonymous asked: how do you normally clean your shoes? or specifically making sure that the original shades of brown/burgandy/cognac your shoes are stay that way? thanks!
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ifitseasy asked: I don't know if you're much of the bowtie kind of guy, but where are some good places to get a bowtie in Chicago, within a reasonable price? I'm not particularly interested in the pre-tied/clip ons.
Anonymous asked: any idea on how the trim fit shirts from neiman marcus last call fit? they have an extra 30% today bringing their white spread collar shirt to only 35 a pop
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